The Secret of SODO

Most every railfan can understand the thrill of finding a perfect spot to watch trains do their thing. Seattle's SODO ("South Of Downtown") district is one such place that lies humbly due south of the Safeco and Qwest Fields. This mostly industrial heart of Seattle is usually known by the sports teams that play in the stadiums to the north, but SODO also harbors a secret that brings smiles to railfans young and old. Like trains? You'll find them here in a big way. There's a busy multi-track mainline running north/south through the center, commuter rail tracks running nearby, and a busy international switching yard for BNSF. Add some of the common regional cloud cover to the Seattle skyline to the north, and you have a railfanning experience that is unique to Washington.

Railfanning in an urban environment is a far cry from the leafy snowy scenes of many railfan photos we see on the Internet. But urban railfanning has its own character. It's gritty, showing trains in a true light because they themselves are gritty. Because of its closeness to our home, SODO is a favorite destination for me and my sons - day or night. Photo opportunities are everywhere. Parking is easy to find unless it's "Game Day." SODO is flat, so even walking or bicycling the area is easy. The trains run often enough that visitors are treated to at least one double-stack unit train, or if timed right the Amtrak Coast Starlight. There are "garbage trains," mixed freight trains, commuters, passenger trains, engines running without cars from one yard to another, and even scrap metal trains. Switching work along the mainline and in other areas occurs almost 24/7. If you don't see a train when you get there, find some coffee (Starbucks World HQ is in SODO, and has a store just to the north on 1st Ave) and wait another 1/2 hour. The variety will keep any camera happy.

Finding SODO is easy; take the 4th Avenue exit of either I-5 or I-90 and turn right (south). Once you cross Royal Brougham Way, you're there. The busy BNSF Mainline runs parallel with 4th Avenue S and 1st Avenue S down the length of the area before entering a large freight yard south of Spokane Street. It also runs - literally - underneath Safeco Field's eastern end, and provides another unique experience: federally mandated crossing blasts from trains during Mariners games. A few years back the media tried to get BNSF to stop blowing the horns during the All-Star game "because it would ruin the broadcast." They were laughed out of the meetings. Since then it has come to be an expected and welcome part of a Mariners game, much like the Green Monster is to Boston.

Four major streets in SODO cross the Mainline: Holgate, Lander, Horton, and Spokane. Holgate and Lander both offer close public parking that will allow a railfan to troll the area with a camera. In fact, there is a Krispy Kreme at the corner of 1st and Holgate within ear shot of the mainline. Horton is a true gritty industrial street; parking is minimal but walking the area can often find a hidden road switcher or two. Spokane Street runs underneath the Spokane St Viaduct towards West Seattle; parking areas there are more congested, and making a left turn anywhere near the viaduct is difficult unless you know the backroads.

The BNSF International Gateway Yard was once called "Stacy Yard" and named for a street that doesn't intersect with it; this is a bustling place filled with switchers, trucks, and railcars of all types. Once owned by the mighty Northern Pacific and used extensively by the Milwaukee Road, the yard is home to some of BNSF's big new orange loading cranes - seen easily from 1st Avenue S. One of the most interesting things I've seen there, parked right along Colorado Avenue, was a trio of locomotives from the Alaska Railroad awaiting their boat ride back to the North. They were close enough to touch (of course that wouldn't be a good idea). A drive down Colorado can look different every day; sometimes the yard is entirely clear while other days it's so full a person can't see anything from the road. On the north end of the yard (Atlantic Street), switch engines use a track that runs directly underneath the Alaskan Way Viaduct to move their cars around. Parking nearby allows you to get out and get close to the action. Guaranteed dry railfanning in the winter time, thanks to the viaduct!

So if you're looking for a different railfan experience that doesn't include trees (unless those trees are bare and strung with wires), SODO can offer some uncharacteristic sites and sounds. Getting the true feeling for what goes on there takes several trips, or one really long one. But once you visit, it's sure to be a secret you'll share with all of your friends!